Catfish Dewey's: Neighborhood Joint with Great Service, Lots of Carbs, Less Flavor

If you are a vacationer who wants to visit a seafood restaurant where the locals go, add Catfish Dewey's to your Fort Lauderdale things-to-do list.

You will need a rented car or plan for a taxi ride that, in my experience, could easily be $30 or more.

No local restaurant has been able to equal the fried oyster po' boy at King Neptune in Port Salerno, but I keep trying.

My first choice was the 15th Street Fisheries. On this sunny South Florida Sunday, I could think of worse things to do than eat on the water.

The parking lot at the marina is small, and the line for valet parking was long.

So I turned around. I don't like crowds when I eat. I headed along to Catfish Dewey's restaurant in Oakland Park.

I figured it would be a family restaurant; all-you-can-eat catfish usually is, and I had plenty enough of that in Georgia. I don't bother with AYCE menus, because my appetite is small. Quality matters more than quantity.

The first dish was conch fritters that arrived along with my iced tea. These were perfect -- warm and tasy. Conch can be tediously rubbery. The serving was generous, probably around eight. I couldn't finish my portion.

The coleslaw arrived next, piled high -- so high, I had trouble forking it up from the small, shallow side bowl. It lacked seasoning, but I give this Florida restaurant props for the generous portions.

Some eateries skimp on the slaw, and I can't understand that. Cabbage is cheap.

The owner of an Italian restaurant once told a friend that one secret of his success was generous portions of spaghetti. "It's cheap," the restauranteur explained, and diners love you for it.

Catfish Dewey's subscribes to this philosophy.

My waitress -- and I'm sorry I didn't pay attention to her name because she deserves a shout-out -- was solicitous without being obtrusive.

This is not the kind of restaurant where the server introduces herself and acts as if you are going to be BFF from then on. You are more likely to hear, "What can I get you, hon?"

She kept my tea full, got the tartar sauce I asked for promptly, and delivered the check in a timely way without even having to catch her eye.

The oyster sandwich and old-fashioned southern greens I got (kale, I think) were also generous. There were seven or eight juicy plump oysters on the roll, lightly battered and fried exactly as the menu promises.

I prefer more seasoning on everything, so I dumped a lot of Louisiana hot sauce on them before dipping them in the tartar sauce, also not spicy enough for me. I skipped the huge role.

The greens were not the most flavorful I've ever had -- low in salt and not enough bacon or pork fat or whatever it is that makes this dish often taste so good.

Catfish Dewey's is a large dining hall with rustic red-check tablecloths and wood floor. Plenty of people were eating when I arrived toward 3 p.m.

I prefer to eat when the crowds are light, so my timing was excellent. There are always cars parked out front when I drive past, but there is more parking in the rear. Cars in the parking lot is a sign of a potentially good restaurant. I have tried a few restaurants whose parking lots are empty; invariably, people were avoiding them for good reasons.

Many Americans like restaurants with plentiful if somewhat bland servings. I cannot fault Catfish Dewey's as a seafood Florida restaurant that is easy on the pocketbook and has good service. Even though I prefer spicier food, Catfish Dewey's is an experience worth recommending among Fort Lauderdale things-to-do.

Warehouse with Artistic Mural Captures Eye of the Hurricane

Even our warehouses are better in Fort Lauderdale.

This ordinary gray cinderblock warehouse is probably will not be on any tourists' list of things-to-do in Fort Lauderdale.

Located on a street parallel to Dixie Highway, the muralist made the best of the dull gray exterior by using it for an eye-of-the-hurricane scene.

I like the energy of the storm and the way the palm trees are shown bending in the wind.

So far, we've escaped any hurricanes, but I learned this morning on the Weather Channel, that 49% of all hurricanes hit the East Coast USA in September. And 82% come in September or October.

I remember some doozies late in the season. Wilma, for one, had schools closed in November. Tropical Storm Irene, later upgraded to hurricane, knocked down our fence and closed roads.

Going back to the Eighties, I remember the time a tanker washed up in the back yard of Palm Beach socialite Molly Wilmot. She fed the Venezuelan crew finger sandwiches and adopted their cat. If you are intrigued, you can read her 2002 New York Times obituary here.

Ernie's Barbecue: An Institution Best Avoided If Ketchup Is Not Your Idea of Good Sauce

Ernie's Barbecue has become a Fort Lauderdale institution of local popular culture during its half-century-plus in operation. Somehow, I strayed onto websites that suggested it was the top ribs joint in town and should be high on the Fort Lauderdale things-to-do and restaurants to sample list.

I don't look for ambiance in a barbecue restaurant. Ernie's has some Florida murals, an interesting floor that may be terrazzo and looks like it needs a thorough cleaning, and the ever-present TV screens of the sports bar.

The first sign that this would not be a meal to remember in a good way was the menu description of the ribs threatening it would be "smothered" in sauce.

I've come to favor Memphis and St. Louis spice rubs. But I've got nothing against a good sauce, either. I've sampled some of the best in Georgia, can whip up my own with a complex layering of flavors that includes the subtlety of leeks, and I'm not against Bone-Sucking Sauce in a jar in a pinch.

Ernie's sauce was all but inedible. Lumps of diced onions that had not been cooked thoroughly enough to dissolve floated in a mixture of catsup and vinegar. I couldn't scrape enough of it off the ribs fast enough.

Slaw was served in a tiny cup. C'mon folks, cabbage is cheap. Why be stingy?

The Bahama bread was okay. On the plus side, real butter was served, and the ice tea was strong and flavorful.

The waitress was indifferent, and the barkeep could barely pry his eyes off the TV long enough to summon her.

Like the fast-food restaurants that litter the American landscape, Ernie's is another example of Americans insensate palates. That it has such a long history proves the bankruptcy of popular culture food preferences. You can find plenty of poor reviews along with the raves; I recommend trusting the former.

Ernie's is located at 1843 S Federal Hwy (US 1), just slightly south of 17th Street with its Causeway, on the West side of Federal.

Pompano Beach: Bright Murals and Renovations

A beautiful drive from Fort Lauderdale to Pompano Beach, traveling North on U.S. 1 and East on Atlantic Boulevard, yielded these photos of the ever-growing array of outdoor murals in this area.

This building, a former restaurant bar, has been a painted lady for a long time. It is vacant and may be in its death throes.

That's a shame, because the Federal Highway location would seem a good one for business. It's right in front of the Fox Cross condo complex for over 55, so a lot of foot traffic is possible. And it has a parking lot.

Nearby, this fantastically detailed mural is a newer one. It extends along the side of the building, as you see.

The curlicues and dots on the pineapple that are stunning. Hours of work must have been spent creating this colorful art that all of us can enjoy for absolutely free.

The Star Ballroom reflects the somewhat shabbier side of Pompano Beach. But the two murals on the buildings facade show all the fun that goes on inside. The Star is a very active place for dancers.

A charming older element of Pompano Beach is this mosaic map on the side of one building. You can see the detail in the next photo.

This faux lighthouse is a remnant of the kitschy architecture of old South Florida of the 1950 and 1960s. I am sorry to see the passing of these quaint structures and glad a few remain.

Renovations are in progress at two strip malls -- and much needed, judging from some of the uninviting exteriors of others.

Last, here are two more photos of an op-art mural that has sprung up on the side of a stained glass art gallery. Viva the muralists.

Doris Market, Fort Lauderdale, for Yummy Meatballs and Handmade Pasta

I'm fast becoming a fan of Doris Market for Italian specialty items, meat, and fresh food.

In the prepared foods display, the meatballs are big, have just the right of meatiness, nicely seasoned and flavorful.

I hate rolling meat between my hands, so buying handmade when it's this good is a plus.

When it comes to Fort Lauderdale things-to-do and places to eat, if your hotel room has a microwave, you can do worse than pick up some prepared food from the Doris Market case to enjoy a nice meal ensuite.

I also tried the handmade pasta in one of the cooler cases, and I will never want to go back to the dry kind. It melts in my mouth with a creamy delicious taste.

In the meat department,I found a meat loaf package with ground veal, ground pork and ground beef that I can use for my own meat loaf recipe. I got mine decades ago when I used to type recipes from Miss Josephine Vasto, a prolific provider of delicious homemade foods at the Albany Times-Union back in the day.

Miss Vasto was a type of ethnic lady we don't see much anymore: unmarried herself but she doted on cooking for her nieces and nephews.

I also found some rosemary-cheese sausage on sale that looks good. Possible recipes include grilling this with peppers and onions and eating on a savory baguette or enjoying with more of that handmade pasta.

I would have expected to pay $10-$20 more for the same amount of meat products and other food where I usually shop, The Fresh Market, so I was pleasantly surprised by the check out price.

Fresh herbs were $1.50, same price as the farmer's market across the street. I rarely see fresh bay leaves or sage, so I was happy to snap up these. If you have recently moved to South Florida, add "find a farmer's market" for local produce to your list of Fort Lauderdale things-to-do.

In summary, if you live in Broward County and there's a Doris Market near you, I recommend the meatballs and fresh pasta.

Mural Depicts Fort Lauderdale Theme on Elevator Shaft

This mural is fading in the harsh sunlight; the building appears to be deserted. A BankAtlantic location on the ground floor has apparently been abandoned since the local entity was purchased by BB&T.

I like the way the blue Florida sky, with some puffy clouds, reflects off the mirrored windows.

It is not unusual to see exterior elevator shafts in South Florida. This is the only one I have seen that features a mural depicting scenes of the Florida environment and history.

The twin leaping sailfish on the front of the tower are dramatic.

This side features an alligator and, at the top, a representation of a native American.

You can find this bulding on Federal Highway (U.S. 1) slightly south of McNab Road, on the east side.


UPDATE: April 21, 2014 -- Sadly, the mural is no more. The elevator has been repainted plain sky blue. Given the state of the building, I doubt that it will be replaced with a new mural. If it is, I will return with my camera.

Stroll Along Las Olas and Admire the Sights for Cheap Fort Lauderdale Things-to-Do

One of my favorite Fort Lauderdale things-to-do is to walk around the Las Olas Boulevard area.

This tropical paradise is someone's back yard, just off one of the numerous canals that crisscross the section of the city designed to be the Venice of the United States.

A modern apartment building with spacious balconies overlooking one of the navigable canals -- and therefore prime real estate.

The Cadillac Villa is a well-known example of Mid-Century modern style.





It was on the market a year or so ago and may have changed ownership. This strikes fear in the hearts of those of us who love this old Florida style that a modern high-rise could all too soon spring up in its place.

This blue aluminum tree in an upstairs window of the Cadillac Villa strikes exactly the right decorating note for the Christmas-New Year season. This time of year is so popular with visitors that it is simply called The Season down here.

The habit began when Palm Beach and Miami were winter retreats for the fabulously wealthy. A round of gala fund-raisers, balls, and polo matches began that comprise The Season.

Now, it is co-opted by the tourism trade as that time of year that brings in the largest portion of that industry's income.

Another darling mid-century modern low-rise condo. It is in the Isle of Venice and Hendricks Isle area off Las Olas Boulevard.

A canal becomes a boat parking lot yet evokes serenity for those fortunate enough to have this view.

Interesting architecture of a newer grand home that contrasts the curved line of the roof with the angles of the windows and patios.

Fort Lauderdale Murals: Trompe L'Oeil Street Art

A huge mural graces the side of a three-story building at 1995 East Oakland Park Boulevard in Tamarac. Trompe l'oeil street art is a free delight among Fort Lauderdale things-to-see.



The sunset colors recreate the glowing peaches of a subtropical evening. Details, such as the shadow of a bird, add to the realism.



The artist has left name and phone number for admirers.

A few blocks away, a sub sandwich shop advertises its location at 1100 East Oakland Park Boulevard with this clever rendition of a European-style street cafe.



This colorful scene artfully disguises an awkward corner where a strip mall abuts an older, larger building. A patch of blue sky at the right top blends with the normally blue skies of South Florida. Even the yellow bricks, left, are fluently incorporated into the mural.



The close-up, below, shows the colorful palette of this creation.

I enjoy the murals that seem to be cropping up everywhere, adding interest to otherwise blank or even unsightly walls. Cheers for these street artists.



More Murals

Scroll down to see mural on Las Olas Boulevard.

Historical mural on Broward Boulevard is last photo.


Mid-century modern buildings at beach

Mid-century modern buildings, Seven Isles, off Las Olas Boulevard

Delray Beach, Christmas Fantasy, Great Restaurants: Fort Lauderdale Things to Do

Delray Beach is one of several sea-side towns that offer quaint charm a pleasant drive from Fort Lauderdale.



A Winter Festival was being celebrated when I visited last weekend.



The many restaurants were decked out in holiday finery. After enjoying the rare treat of raw oysters, I sauntered over to the village square where Santa was holding court.



A snow machine had produced some of the white stuff for children, disappearing by the time I arrived.



Two young blades were testing their skills on the ice. From their dress and moves, I suspected they were more at home on skateboards on cement.



A horse of a different color invites visitors into Ted's desert and gift emporium.



Ted's is a feast for the eyes, as well as a treasury for your sweet tooth. This photo looks in from the door.



Christmas trees, glittering with decorations, seemed to be everywhere.



Bits of holiday cheer popped up in surprising places -- here, a mermaid in Mrs. Santa suit on shelves with candy gifts, top right.



Santa turns up on a vintage coffee sign -- itself tucked surprisingly among fishy wall art.



Santa in a gold suit goes sailing.



Santa draws attention to glittery gifts.



Two huge glass chandeliers of blown glass were exceptional works of art.





When you visit Fort Lauderdale and are looking for things to do, rent a car and take a drive to see some of the seaside towns.

Delray Beach, with its plentiful restaurants, is a pleasant spot for brunch, lunch, or dinner. Next further north is Lake Worth, which also has some exceptional luncheon spots, at least two with French themes. Last if you want to continue driving northward, quiet Stuart is worth seeing.

Billie Swamp Airboat Ride, Gators, Turtles:Fort Lauderdale Things to Do

It was a perfect day for the Billie Swamp Airboat ride. The sky was blue as tourmaline and a light breeze riffled the air.

Even though I’ve lived in South Florida for most of the past 28 years, I’ve never been to the Big Cypress Park in the Everglades.

CHICKEE HUTS


Chickee huts, native structures of the Miccosukee Indians, are everywhere.

They serve as picnic pavilions, places to store old farm equipment, and shady play areas for children. Some backyards have several.

AIRBOAT AT DOCK, BACK VIEW OF ENGINE


These chickee huts may be seen from the dock of the Billie Swamp airboat ride.

The airboat is noisier than one might anticipate. Earplugs are distributed with one’s pass for the ride.

PARKED IN THE SUN


The ride is relatively brief. Nearly 15 minutes of the half-hour jaunt was spent parked in still water while the guide answered the prattling questions of a child.

PARKED IN THE SUN


Among the facts learned: There are 2.2 million square miles of Everglades and 6 million alligators.

SMALL TURTLE'S NOSE BARELY VISIBLE


As a longtime Florida resident, an alligator sighting is no longer a thrill. Mostly, one hopes not to see them crossing the road or climbing from the water into one’s yard.

They find little dogs and small children tasty.

ALLIGATORS LURKED HERE


We also encountered water buffalo and ostriches (or possibly emus) in one area of the swamp. Water buffalo were imported for the entertainment of the visitors who expect to see wildlife.

Their milk is used to make expensive Buffalo mozzarella.

MYSTERY PORTAL -- YOU HAD TO BE THERE TO SEE IT


I was especially intrigued by what appeared to be a mysterious portal in the shrubbery, photo above. I have a quartet of door and archway art on one wall of my home.

LONG STRAIGHT ROAD TO BILLIE SWAMP SAFARI


There is lots of nothing to see on the reservation, as the U.S. government was fond of giving Native Americans the least valuable parcels of land.

RESERVATION FLAT LANDS



The Miccosukee have made the best of it, breeding cattle, rock mining, and of course the big money-maker, running casinos.

CATTLE GRAZING


There is a small restaurant with a limited menu on the premises. I had the over-priced gator tidbits. It wasn't the first time I've had gator but it's not on every menu in the state either. Yes, it tastes like chicken.

There are some brightly-plumed jungle birds, snakes, and turtles in cages for visitors to see.

BIG TURTLES WITH BEAUTIFUL SHELLS


GOPHER TURTLE